Guest Post By: Karen Mills

When you come to Florence, visiting the Uffizi is practically an obligation.  The Uffizi is one of the oldest and most famous museums of the western world.  It was originally built in 1560 by Giorgio Vasari as commissioned by Cosimo I de Medici.  Cosimo I wanted to consolidate all of the offices within one building.  He also wanted a few rooms in the building to put some of his growing art collection.

Over the years, the Medici collection grew to fill the entire second floor of these offices.  Anna Maria Luisa, the last of the Medici heirs, gave the entire collection to the commune with the understanding that the collection is never to leave Florence.  The gallery has been opened to visitors since the 16^th century, and in 1765 was opened to the public.

When you visit, it is a good idea to have a plan on exactly what you want to see.  The collection is vast, (1700 works on display and another 1400 in storage) and unless you have a particular interest and/or knowledge about art of this time period, it can easily be overwhelming.  I recommend before you go purchasing your tickets on line.  There are many vendors so check around for the best price.  These vendors will charge the price of the ticket, plus a handling fee, which can vary.  There are also guides available should you prefer that.    Online booking might cost a little more, but will insure that you get into the museum when you want, and don’t have to spend your precious vacation time standing in a long line waiting.( I have heard as long as 5 hours)  The prebooked tickets will insure an entrance time, so that you can plan your day accordingly.

The interior of the museum itself is worth the visit, with the beautiful wood and frescoed ceilings, marble floors and statues.  The light from the windows along the perimeter is lovely and some of the views from the loggia at the end near the Arno are stunning.  Although you aren’t allowed to take pictures inside the museum of the art work, the area of the loggia looking over the river and the Ponte Vecchio is a great place to get a beautiful panorama.

Before you enter the museum, take a minute to acclimate yourself to the art and artists that you want to see.  The galleries are divided by the artists and time periods, so once you know which ones you are interested in, you can go directly to these salons.   I guess it goes without saying that you absolutely do not want to miss the works of Botticelli, Annunciation, La Primavera and The Birth of Venus, Leonardo DaVinci’s Woman’s Head and Adoration of the Magi, Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo, Raphael’s self portrait, and the Venus of Urbino by Titian.

There is a nice café in the museum, which has outdoor space on the top of the loggia.  You can get coffee, drinks, or a light lunch here.  As you might guess, it is expensive, but worth taking a look even if you don’t indulge, for the close up view of the campanile of the Palazzo Vecchio and the Duomo.

For more information on Florence sites, visit www.anamericaninitaly.com

Karen Mills is an American woman who made the decision to leave her corporate life behind to live “la dolce vita” in Florence, Italy, Read more about her experiences at An American In Italy or contact her at queenkaren0@hotmail.com

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Guest Post By: Karen Mills

Guest Post By: Karen Mills 

While visiting the many wonderful historical sites and museums in Florence, many want to take

advantage of the tremendous shopping opportunities for wonderful Italian designs. There is no

shortage of opportunities in Florence!

For the really high end designer stores, head to elegant via Tournabouni. Starting at the river near

Ponte Santa Trinita, you will find the Palazzo Spini Feroni, which now houses Salvatore Ferragamo.

Alongside the retail merchant of Ferragamo, there is a shoe museum housing all of the creations of

Ferragamo, including those for his most famous clients, such as Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn. If

you head north towards Palazzo Strozzi you will find Prada, Bulgari, Gucci, Cavalli, Pucci, Burberry, and

more. There is even a Tiffany’s!

If you don’t spend all of your money there, or prefer more moderate options, there are plenty of those.

There are three major Italian department stores in Florence, OVS, Rinascente, and Coin. Rinascente

is the high end, Coin, more moderate, and OVS the lower end. OVS is located near the train station of

Santa Maria Novella on via Panzani. Rinascente is located on Piazza della Repubblica and Coin on via

Calzaioli. All of these department stores carry the latest Italian fashions and have huge sales in August

and January.

If you have time to take a day trip just outside of Florence, consider going to the Barbarini Outlets. You

can take the SITA bus from the station adjacent to Santa Maria Novella, and spend a few hours there. It

is an open style outlet mall with all the designer names.

One of the most famous places to shop in Florence, and definitely the oldest is the Mercato San

Lorenzo. This is located in the San Lorenzo area and is a street full of vendors selling leather bags,

jackets, wallets, belts, purses, clothes, watches, and jewelry. You can also find leather bound photo

albums, diaries, handmade glass items and souvenirs. Be sure to bargain with the vendors for the best

price available. It is expected! If your time is too short to make a trip into San Lorenzo, try the Nuovo

Mercato, located in Piazza di Porcellino, near the Ponte Vecchio. You will find that the selection is not as

large, and the prices will be a little higher.

If you are looking for food gifts to return to friends and family, or something for a picnic, stop in Mercato

Centrale, also located in San Lorenzo. This market houses many small shops selling fresh meat, poultry,

fish, and vegetables, but also Italian delicacies such as prosciutto, salami, pecorino cheeses, olive

oils, pastas, and balsamic vinegar. There are wine shops and small restaurants where you can get a

sandwich. Even if you aren’t in the market for buying food items, go in and take a look at a great part of

the Italian market culture in Florence.

There are many artisans and small boutiques throughout the city of Florence and across the river in the

Oltrarno district. These small boutiques sell one of a kind fashion at a variety of price levels. There are

also the internationally famous stores for the younger set such as Zara, and H & M, also located on via

Calzaioli. Happy shopping!

For more information on Florence sites, visit www.anamericaninitaly.com

Karen Mills is an American woman who made the decision to leave her corporate life behind to live “la dolce vita” in Florence, Italy, Read more about her experiences at An American In Italy or contact her at queenkaren0@hotmail.com

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Guest Post By: Karen Mills

Have you traveled to Florence? Visited other parts of Italy? Do you have any advice or recommendations for our readers?

Guest Post By: Karen Mills

It was years after I started coming to Florence that I finally got around to visiting the Boboli Gardens. Being interested in the art and architecture of Florence, I focused my efforts on the museums created for those purposes while failing to realize that the Boboli Gardens has all of that and more! Now, it is one of my favorite places and I visit it frequently to take advantage of the cool green space and enjoy the art and architecture there. I even take a picnic and some wine, and have a spectacular view of the city!

Before you go, or when you get there, I recommend that you buy the guide book before entering. This way you can read about what you are seeing as you see it. I think this makes a more enjoyable experience than reading about it after the fact, and maybe not getting to look at certain features or details that you might have otherwise. The gift shop and book store is to your right as you enter the grand courtyard at the Pitti Palace.

The land of the Boboli Gardens was part of the estate that Eleanora of Toledo, the wife of Cosimo I acquired in 1550 from the Pitti family. The gardens have had extensive work over the years, and vegetation has been changed and replaced. In the 1840’s the labyrinths were removed to build a pathway for carriages. However, the grounds still reflect the characteristic Italian garden from the original creation.

When you enter the Pitti Palace, you will pass through the Ammannati courtyard. This courtyard has 3 full size walls of the building and on the fourth wall; straight ahead you will see the Artichoke Fountain. Don’t miss the Grotto of Moses located within this courtyard and under the fountain.

As you make your way up the stairs and into the garden, you will start to get an idea of the views that are waiting for you as you go higher up into the garden. There is a lot of walking and much of it is uphill, so keep that in mind. Fortunately, there are places to sit and stop for a breather along the way, and you will want to do that to enjoy the panoramas, and the art work and statues. Continue to the top and stop at the Forcone Basin while making your way to the Statute of Plenty which was started by Giambologna, and finished my several other artists.

At the top of the hill you can see stunning views of Florence, and the path that you have traveled back to the Pitti Palace. From here you should go right and visit The Knight’s Garden. Here you will find beautiful views of the Italian countryside and the city wall as it makes its way to Porta Romana. Heading down to the Island Pond you will walk the Cypress Lane. It is beautiful itself with the tall cypresses, but the statues make it extra special.

If you go back towards the Palace and explore the garden to the left, you will find the Annalena Grotto. The Grand Grotto, or Buontalenti’s Grotto is almost at the exit, and visits are permitted only upon authorization. I don’t know how you get authorization, but if I find out I will let you know. It is worth investigating, as once when I was in the garden it was opened and I got to go inside. It is worth seeing! Michelangelo’s prisoners once stood in the corners before being moved to the Accadamia, and currently there are copies there. As you exit, don’t miss the infamous statue of Dwarf Morganti, although the statue is fondly called Bacchus. I would plan a minimum of a half day to explore the gardens and more if you want to have a picnic and take some time to relax.

For more information on Florence sites, visit www.anamericaninitaly.com

Karen Mills is an American woman who made the decision to leave her corporate life behind to live “la dolce vita” in Florence, Italy, Read more about her experiences at An American In Italy or contact her at queenkaren0@hotmail.com.

Guest Post By: Karen Mills

At least once per week and sometimes more in the summer, I head up to the panoramic view at Piazzale Michelangelo. The overlook was built by Giuseppe Poggi and was part of the cities urban renewal. At the time, Florence was the capital of Italy. (1869) This overlook can be reached by a few streets in Florence for a nice, uphill walk, or by bus number 12 or 13 from a variety of points throughout the city. You can buy tickets at the Tabbacci stores and they cost 1.20 euro and are good for 90 minutes.

The overlook is beautiful at any time of the day or any time of the year, but the sunsets in the summer that take place around 9 p.m. are breathtaking. The sky turns a variety of shades of yellow, orange, pink, and purple and with the Tuscan Hills as a background and the beautiful renaissance buildings of the Florence skyline, it makes for a romantic evening. You can see the Tuscan country side to the left with a view of Tuscan villas and olive trees and the rambling city wall that makes its way to Porta Romana. Inside the wall, you can see the Ponte Vecchio, Ponte Santa Trinita, and Carraia, along with the tower of Palazzo Vecchio, The Duomo and bell tower, San Lorenzo and the Chapel of the Medici, and Santa Croce.

Piazzale Michelangelo is a large open space with parking for cars, vendors who sell souvenirs, watercolors and food, and there is a monument to Michelangelo. (1871) The monument contains a bronze replica of the David, and the base of the statue is decorated with copies of the statutes that Michelangelo did to decorate the tomb of the Medici. (The originals are located in San Lorenzo).

There are a few restaurants at the Piazzale, offering a variety of foods. The restaurants include sit down dining with pastas and pizza, as well as a bar with sandwiches and gelato. There is an upscale restaurant located in the loggia which was built by Poggi and was intended to be a museum that would house Michelangelo’s work. That idea never came to fruition.

If you go in the summer, take a picnic and a bottle of wine. Go early because it gets crowded here for the sunset! Sometimes in the evening there is live music at the base of the stair facing the west where you can sit and enjoy the sunset.

Located above this site is the church and adjoining monastery of San Miniato al Monte. This church is one of the finest examples of Florentine Romanesque architecture in the city with its striking white and green marble. The view here is magnificent. At 4:30 in the afternoon, the monks of the Olivetans community perform Gregorian chants. There are works of art by Michelozzo, Gaddi, and Luca della Robbia.

Don’t miss the gift shop to the left of the church. There are handmade soaps, oil, liqueurs and honey made by the monks in the monastery.

For more information on Florence sites, visit www.anamericaninitaly.com

Karen Mills is an American woman who made the decision to leave her corporate life behind to live “la dolce vita” in Florence, Italy, Read more about her experiences at An American In Italy or contact her at queenkaren0@hotmail.com.

Guest Post By: Karen Mills

Piazza Santa Croce, located a little distance away from most of the main tourist attractions, yet still within walking distance, was built during the Middle Ages, in the 13^th-14^th century.  It gets its name from the Franciscan Church located at the East side of the piazza which is one of the best examples of Florentine Gothic architecture in the city.  The piazza is a very large rectangular space and because it does not get shaded from the buildings is one of the warmest locations in Florence.  It is great in the winter, but can be blazing hot in the summer.  There are beautiful palaces along the sides, as well as vendors of leather and jewelry.

The Basilica of Santa Croce is one of my top sites to see in Florence, and although it is overshadowed by the Duomo, the church itself contains more interesting pieces of art as well as the tombs of some great Italians such as Michelangelo, Ghiberti, Galilio, and Machiavelli.  Because of these famous Italians along with many others, the church is sometimes called The Temple of the Italian Glories.   Artists on display in this Basilica are Brunelleschi, who created a domed chapel in the cloisters, Luca della Robbia, Taddeo Gaddi, and Cimabue.  Giotto painted several large frescoes within the 16 chapels. Much of the Basilica as well as the art within were damaged by the great flood of 1966, but it has been restored and replaced within the church.

The construction of the church began in 1294 and the basilica was consecrated in 1442.  A beautiful statue of Dante adorns the left side of the church.  The two famous historic palaces located in the piazza are Palazzo Cocchi-Serristori, which today is the headquarters of Quarter 1 in Florence, and Palazzo dell’Antella painted with a beautiful façade by Giovanni San Giovanni, painted in 1620.

Every year, the piazza hosts the Calcio Fiorentino, a historic event of football played out on the piazza.  This event occurs in June every year and sod is laid in the piazza and each Quartiere dons their uniforms to compete.  Because of the size of the piazza, many sporting events have taken place over the centuries in this Piazza.  This year’s calico matches will take place on June 18, 19, and 24^th.

Off of Piazza Santa Croce, you will find the street via Torte which leads to via della Stinche and one of the best gelato shops in Florence, Vivoli.  Vivoli is closed on Monday, and one slight drawback is that they only sell gelato in cups, no cones.  Try the chocolate fondente with cocco, for a frozen “Mounds bar” like treat!

While on Piazza Santa Croce, you will find street vendors and entertainers, and for a bite to eat, try Boccadama.  Boccadama is opened 11-3 and 6:30-10:30.  There is outside dining in warm weather.  You will find traditional Tuscan fare at this hot spot in Florence.

There is a renowned leather school n the back of the basilica and a beautiful cloistered garden on the outside of the church.  Admission price to see the Basilica is only 5 euro.  I recommend the audio guide for an additional 5 euro to give you all the details that you need to understand the altars and the artwork. For more information on Florence sites, visit www.anamericaninitaly.com

Karen Mills is an American woman who made the decision to leave her corporate life behind to live “la dolce vita” in Florence, Italy, Read more about her experiences at An American In Italy or contact her at queenkaren0@hotmail.com.