Guest Post by Ruth Elayne Kongaika

When we lived in Tonga, visitors often asked us where to find the best sights on our island. Tongatapu undoubtedly has many fine sandy beaches where you can relax and cool off. Plus, depending on what you like to do, here are a few of my favorite suggestions that may whet your appetite.

The Royal Palace: Tonga is the last remaining kingdom in the South Pacific. Only members of the Royal Family live in The Palace, but you can peer through the fence, or see it from the waterfront.  Originally built in 1864, in comparison to other royal homes throughout the world, the Wood Victorian Palace in Tonga is quite humble. It has been the residence of Kings and Queens, and has also been the meeting place for many ambassadors and heads of state. You would really miss a big part of the past and present of the islands if you did not view The Palace. It recently underwent some renovations.

The Ha’amonga: On the northern end of Tongatapu, near Niutoua, you can find the Ha’amonga. It is a trilithon made of coral limestone slabs. It was manually constructed in the 13th century, and is believed to be an entryway into the royal compound of the ruler of that time who was called Tu’itatui. When you walk through the gate and venture a few yards more, you will find a large stone, which is believed to be the monarch's throne. It is curious how the ancients built the Ha’amonga, because of the large size of the stones (about 20 tons each). Of course, there is a legend attached to the structure, as well a real or imagined astronomical connection.

The Blowholes: I have never seen any thing to rival the amazing blowholes in Tonga. We lived not too far away from the village of Houma where they are best seen. When the rolling waves advance, you can hear a whistling as the water is pushed up through air vents in the rocks. The water shoots skyward, and depending on the tide, can be very spectacular. The spray from the blowholes can be observed along the rocky coastline for four miles on a clear day, and the propelled water can reach heights of 30 meters. There are little tide pools that you can carefully venture into, but stay far away from the edge.

The Flying Foxes: My husband’s aunt and several cousins lived in the village of Kolovai, which is known for the bats which are hanging in the ironwood pine trees. Once I understood that these bats, otherwise known as flying foxes, eat only fruit I felt much more at ease. They sleep upside down during the day, and venture out to look for fruit at dusk. I recall one little Tongan boy came up to us calmly holding the tips of the wings of one flying fox so we could see the wingspan. It was quite impressive, since some of them measure three feet across.  In Tonga, flying foxes are considered sacred, and thus they are protected.

‘Anahulu Cave: One of my favorite places to go in Tonga is the ‘Anahulu Cave. It is very close to Mu’a in the village of Haveluliku. There is a freshwater swimming hole in the underground stalactite cave. When we visited the cave, a local family invited us in, and put on a Tongan show for us. You will want to have a strong flashlight and sturdy shoes. Be careful as the rocks can be slippery, and look after your valuables. You can also swim at the beach with the same name as the cave.

Hufangalupe: If you want to see an unforgettable sight, travel to the south coast of Tongatapu to Hufangalupe. It is otherwise known as the “Pigeon’s Doorway”. There are towering cliffs, a natural bridge and a sandy cove. It is near the village of Vaini. Be very careful that you do not go near the edge of the cliff.

 

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

Guest Post by Ruth Elayne Kongaika

My husband accepted a teaching position, and our new home was at Liahona High School in Tonga. The roads were paved, and there were even sidewalks (unlike neighboring villages). The school was in the middle, with the faculty houses flanking it on both sides. At the rear of the school, there was a large farm where they raised cows and pigs. Roosters and chickens ran wild, and they also raised a vegetable garden. The students of Liahona High School had to spend part of each day working on the plantation or farm to help pay for their tuition and food.

My husband’s parents worked as dorm parents for the girl’s living on campus. We waded through water up to our knees to get to their little apartment. It was the first time I had met my mother-in-law. I briefly met my father-in-law when he had visited the mainland United States. This was the first time both of them had met their little granddaughter, and they instantly fell in love with her. They were so welcoming, and I could see that they were preparing a fine feast for us.

While they were cooking, we were invited to take a rest, which was much needed after the long flight. My husband and I took a nap, while our daughter enjoyed getting to know her grandparents and many cousins. When I awoke, I saw a huge beetle (about two inches long) right in front of my face. There was a flashlight, with a large lamp nearby. I grabbed it, and put it right on top of the beetle, so I could show it to my husband when he arose. When he finally opened his eyes, I proudly picked up the flashlight to reveal what I thought was a rare exotic beetle. He just laughed, and informed me that it was just a cockroach, and that they were all over in Tonga.  I was mortified!  In all my growing up years, I had never seen a cockroach, but had heard that wherever they lived, it was filthy! Later, I realized they thrived in Tonga, because of the warm moist climate.

After the buggy shock wore off, I looked down at my ankles and realized that they were swollen and red.  They felt very itchy. There were a few fat mosquitos swarming around that were filled with my blood. Needless to say, I was not too fond of the “wild life” in Tonga. I later experienced spiders as huge as my hand (they won’t harm you, I was told), centipedes that were a foot long (they will harm you), fleas (to which I found I was allergic), bees, hornets, coconut beetles, walking sticks, plenty of lizards and other creatures. At least there are no snakes in Tonga.

So after my creep-crawly education, we were taken to a table laden with all manner of foods, which I had never laid my eyes on. There were root crops, including taro, ‘ufi (yam), manioke (tapioca), and kumala (sweet potato). I did my best to try everything, and I particularly enjoyed the kumala. There were also tropical fruits including mangos, pineapples, guava, watermelon, passion fruit, lychee, and lesi (papaya).

Most Tongans love mutton, and their favorite is mutton flaps (because they are inexpensive and have plenty of ngako or fat on them). They wrapped mutton flaps in taro leaves, added onions and coconut milk, and baked it. Yummy! They also served New Zealand sausages, chicken, fish and beef. A Tongan feast must have several meats. Often they will have a suckling pig. To top it off, we were served trifle, an island favorite. I was stuffed! I discovered that food is the ultimate gift, and very important in Tonga.

 

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty and wonder of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

Guest Post by Ruth Elayne Kongaika

By far, the most interesting experiences in my life have occurred in Tonga. We lived there for a total of thirteen years with a break after the first three. My husband taught school there, and later became an administrator at a high school.

When I first heard about Tonga, my mind conjured up spectacular scenes of sandy beaches in a tropical paradise similar to Hawaii. Tonga is indeed beautiful, and it does have many picturesque beaches. However, there were quite a few surprises that I had not expected.

After a long flight from the mainland United States, we finally flew over our future home. As I looked down, what I saw were rows and rows of coconut tress. Here and there you could see a dirt road weaving through the tress. There were a few shanties with an adjacent round cement tank for water, and clothes hanging on lines in the yard. There were no mountains on Tongatapu, where we were to live. In fact, there were no hills. The land was almost perfectly flat. Having been raised in the Rocky Mountains, I knew this would be a different experience, especially since we were almost at sea level.

When we finally landed (on a grass runway), the heat was intense, and the humidity level was obviously high. Mind you, we arrived there in January, which is right in the middle of the summer in Tonga. That was a shock, having lived with a snowy January all my life up until then.

My husband’s brother picked us up at the airport in his “taxi”. He drove us over several miles of dirt roads. It had recently rained, or rather poured, and in some places the showers had left huge pools of water. The taxi would be semi submerged in these major potholes, and the car stalled a couple of times. My brother-in-law got out of the car, made a few adjustments under the hood, and managed to get us going again.

We passed the endless rows of coconut trees that we had seen from above. Pigs of all sizes wandered across the road as well as chickens and ducks. I felt as though I had traveled back in a time machine a few decades.

About a half hour later, we arrived at a little village called Liahona, that looked like it had been dropped right out of Southern California. Most of the houses along the way were made of wood or out of woven coconut fronds. The homes at this little church college (high school) were made of cinderblocks. They looked out of place, but I was so glad to find out this is where I would be staying while my husband taught school.

We were taken to a little flat (apartment), and I was ecstatic to find we had running water (including hot), and then I got acquainted with my new wringer washer. Our little girl was six months old, so I knew that I would get to know this washer quite well. I was just glad I wouldn’t have to wash my clothes by hand, as I was informed that is how most of the neighboring village women did their laundry.

My first day in Tonga was a real eye opener. I realized how spoiled I had been, and gained a new  appreciation for my husband and his family. In the next three years, Tonga would teach me so many lessons as I became aware of the culture and traditions that had been orally passed down for generations.

Guest Post By :Ruth Elayne Kongaika

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

 

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

The weather was warm and breezy. We could see the active volcani islands of Tofua and Kao from our front yard. Kao is the highest island elevation in Tonga climbing to 3,380 feet. Many other small islands were also visible in the distance.

The first day we visited “town” which consisted of not more than eight tiny stores. Since it was the holiday rush, the shops were full. Because Santa hasn’t yet discovered Ha’apai on his map, most of the shoppers had their children choose a treat or inexpensive toy to take home with them. I had a sting of homesickness as Christmas tapes played in the shops echoed “I’m Dreaming of a White Christmas” and “Jingle Bells.”

We bought a few food items and supplies. Our diet consisted mainly of hard biscuits with butter and jam, Milo, eggs, coconut and Tongan food supplied by generous neighbors. The electricity for the island came on at 6:00 am to 11:00 am and then again from 5:00 to 11:00 p.m. No ice cream was available since the freezers couldn’t stay on consistently.

We boiled all of our water, which had to be pumped from a rainwater tank. Our children had a good workout trying to keep us in water for our daily needs. Our adopted daughter, Titaku, my daughter and I got our exercise doing our laundry by hand. We were impressed by the kindness of neighbors who offered pans, dishes, clothespins and such.

Our children became attached to a boy who lived nearby named “Stoney.” He ended up going with us on most of our outings, and he was always around to lend a helping hand. He had many pets including goats, dogs, cats and pigs. The children never grew tired of feeding and playing with them.

Our spare time was spent biking around the island, swimming at the beautiful sandy beaches, collecting shells and snoozing. My husband met many old friends and distant relatives, or people who had known his parents and grandparents.

Our first Sunday, we attended a very small ward, and were surprised to find we would be the entire program for Sacrament meeting. One day we visited a graveyard close to our place, which had a statue of John Baker. He had dedicated his life to helping the Ha’apai people. In this particular graveyard there were many tombstones, which is rare of Tonga. Most of the graves were those of people from Europe. I was very surprised to find a marble headstone of a missionar, Althen J. Rasmussen, who was born in Mt. Pleasant, Utah, the same place as myself. He had died in 1923 at the age of 22. There was one more marble tombstone like it, but it was face down, and we couldn’t lift it. Isi said it was of another missionary who had died about the same time as the other.

On Christmas night, after a fund day at the beach, we ate at a guest house We met an interesting man from Sweden named Joe. Our Christmas tree was made from an olive tree and decorated with balloons, tinsel, flowers and shells.

Isi asked a friend to his to bring his hoosi and saliote (horse and cart) for us to ride to the liku (cliff) side of the island. We had a great time, and got a feel of what life msut be like for the Ha’apai people. Most of them earn their money collecting old coconuts in these carts and selling them for copra. They are otherwise self sufficient, raising their own crops and animals.

The last dady of our holideay, we hired a truck to take all of us along with our bicycles to the end of the adjacent island. The two islands are joined by a man-made bridge. The beautiful scenery was untouched by concrete buildings, swarming tourists and fortune seekers. We had the best time swimming there since three islands are very close together. The waves created by the currents made for perfect body surfing and shell hunting. We had a long ride back across the island of Foa and halfway across Pangai to our home. Many of the villagers along the way stared at the parade of wet, exhausted foreigners, and shouted their greetings, or an occasional “Palangi” (white person).

Ten days of Ha’apai was just enough, since we had become so accustomed to our modern conveniences of the civilized island of Tongatapu. We missed our wringer washer, treated running water, 24-hour electricity, and our car. So, one last rush to save our lives as we again boarded the Olovaha and bid farewell to an experience we’ll not soon forget.

We wish you could have shared this experience with us, but perhaps you caught the vision of our Christmas holiday in the fascinating islands of Ha’apai, Tonga.

 

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been living in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She enjoys trying to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

 

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

Twas the week before Christmas that our adventure began as we stood in line to board a red and white boat named the Olovaha. Our first-class tickets obviously didn’t promise an easy time, at least not until we were aboard the vessel. It seemed as though the trip had been overbooked from the number of people on deck, people sticking their heads out of portholes, and those still frantically trying to get on. We were literally afraid of being crushed before even leaving Tongatapu! Boxes, food, and even babies were thrown to passengers on board across the water!

We took with us some clothes, games, food, bedding, and our bicycles (seven of them). Our bikes and one big suitcase were loaded inside the front of the boat, along with horses, pigs, goats, various baggages, and food. Safely aboard, we took our seasick pills and settled down in a comfortable little cabin with two bunk beds, table and chairs, and a bathroom conveniently across the hall. Also, we had bought tickets for the business area which had several benches, tables and a video.

A bellowing blast of farewell and we soon found ourselves miles away from our home and three years. Seven heads peered out of one porthole. When we looked straight up, we could see legs dangling from the people on the deck. An occasional bottle or banana peel barely missed our curious faces. When we came to the deeper ocean, the waves grew higher until the spray came in our cabin and we decided to take a nap. Later on, we ventured up on the deck, and grew to appreciate what first class meant on the Olovaha. People laid all over the surface of the boa, some sick, others struggling to keep dry, warm and calm despite the nauseating rock and roll of the boat. The wind was strong and the night black. A restless night for many….We felt very fortunate because for us the ocean seemed mild, and the ride was pleasant. Luckily, noone became ill as we played games, roamed about a bit and reclined as the boat rocked us to sleep.

About 2 o’clock am, the engines stopped, and we awoke to an ocean as smooth and felfective as a mirror. Tiny ripples appeared as a dozen or so little fishing boats with lamps approached to gather relatives to take to a tiny island called Ha’afeva, which is located about 40 miles south of our destination. Some of our LDS missionaries left at this point to dedicate two years to preaching the Gospel on these isolated islands in the group of Lulunga.

Again, the engines roared, and we at last arose with a blast of the horn announcing our arrival at Pangai, Ha’apai, where my husband spent most of his adolescent years. Another wild struggle to get off the boat with all of our paraphernalia. A narrow wharf attached to an island 10 miles long, led right up to the mission home where we were to stay. Frustration at not being able to find the luggage we had put inside the boat, and trying to locate all of our bicycles caused us to have doubts that this venture had been a good idea. Finally, all our gear was together, and we walked the 100 yards to our temporary home. We were delighted to find our accommodations clean and safe. We enjoyed the warm welcome of the friendly neighbors.

Bio

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been traveling in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She tries to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

I was raised on the mainland of United States enjoying the freedoms and rights afforded by the constitution. It states that we Americans are all created equal. I never fully appreciated my rights as an American until I married and followed my husband to his island kingdom of Tonga.

Tonga has a Constitutional hereditary monarchy, which means that it is ruled by a king with authority being passed down through The Royal Family. So, there are the royals and the commoners, with a distinct difference between the two.

In 1989, my husband was called to preside over the LDS Mission in Tonga, which included all of the islands. The kingdom has 171 islands, with only 48 of them being inhabited.

Taufa’ahau Tupou IV was the reigning king in 1989. He was a Christian as were all of his royal ancestors back to King Siaosi Taufa’ahau I. As part of our mission, we were to meet with the king and his family once a month. I was very excited, but also quite intimidated by this assignment. We contacted the spokesperson for the King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV, and arranged for an audience with His Majesty for us and a few of our full-time missionaries.

The date was set, and our meeting would occur at the Royal Summer Cottage. We were informed by the spokesperson that in order for us to gain the approval of His Majesty, we were to prepare food for him and his family. Because I was from America, he suggested that we bake ham, turkey, potato salad and trifle (an English dessert).

On the assigned day, we gathered to prepare ourselves by dressing in the appropriate attire, and we did our best to make the food attractive and tasty fit for The King. We had planned a program that included singing hymns, reading scriptures and saying prayers.

Twenty of our missionaries joined with us as we traveled to the lovely Royal Cottage in Fua’amotu. My husband had informed me that I was expected to crawl up to the King on my hands and knees and kiss his hand. At first I let out a guffaw, and said “yeah, right”!  So much for being created equal – then I remembered I was not in America anymore!  This was going to be an interesting (and humbling) experience for sure!

As we crossed the threshold to the inner sanctum, I observed the enormous throne on which His Majesty sat, flanked by two spokesmen.  Trying hard to be a good little wife, I obeyed my husband’s commands. Wearing a long dress and nylon stockings, I clumsily crawled across a large woven floor mat. I somehow managed to make it all the way across the floor to find myself at the King’s feet. Being well over 300 pounds, the impressively massive King extended his hand towards me. His finger was adorned with a large shiny ring.

Shaking, I kissed the back of His hand, after which he lifted me up and peered into my face. I was informed that it was taboo for me to look directly into his eyes, so I lowered my gaze. In his deep raspy voice, The King asked me a question. He wanted to know if the gentleman following me was my husband.  I replied that he was. He then invited me to sit on the floor beside him whilst he greeted my husband (who just so happens to be his not-too-distant cousin).

I observed as each person in our group showed their respect while being greeted by the King of Tonga. No one stood or attempted to talk unless they were on the program. When walking out, it is forbidden to show your backside to the King, so we all backed out of the room.

Our program went quite well, and it was an exciting and fascinating time that I will never forget. I realize what a rare opportunity it was for me. We made many similar visits to the King and his family, some in the Royal Palace in Nuku’alofa.

Tonga is a very culturally rich and traditional country. Only lately has a pro-democracy movement been active. I felt as though I had traveled in a time machine to another era.

Bio

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been traveling in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She tries to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu

One destination that I think should be on every person’s list is Vava’u in the Friendly Islands of Tonga. It is located in the South Pacific and consists of a chain of forty small islands and one large island. It is truly one of my favorite places in the world. I cannot forget the pristine water and the breathtaking views.

Unlike the rest of Tonga which is basically flat, Vava’u rises to 700 feet above sea level. There are lush rolling hills and a scenic harbor called the Port of Refuge, known as one of the best harbors in the world. Yachts from all over the world float in the idyllic conditions found in the harbor.

Life is simple in Vava’u, and I don’t believe I have ever relaxed as much as I did while I was there. Our family enjoyed swimming and snorkeling at the sandy beaches. There is excellent deep sea diving and several underwater caves to explore.

One day our family took a small motor boat to Swallow’s Cave. I was amazed by the splendor of the cave. Our vessel slid through a small opening in the rocks. Once inside the cave, we could look up and see the sky visible through a hole at the top where the light shines in.

Whales frequently visit the waters surrounding Vava’u, and we were able to see a few of them. There are also plenty of fish of all varieties to watch. Besides the root crops which make up the main food in Tonga, many of the locals in Vava’u grow crops including vanilla beans, passionfruit, mangos, guava, breadfruit, and pineapple.  Giant clams are also raised and stunning pearls are grown and cultured just off the shores and in the lagoons.

The capital of Vava’u is Neiafu. There was no wild nightlife or high rise buildings, but there were quaint little shops, restaurants and bars. It was the perfect place to contemplate, read a good book, relax and be artistically inspired.

The island people were very friendly and respectful. They went out of their way to make us feel comfortable.

We stayed at The Paradise International Hotel in Neiafu. It overlooked the mesmerizing Port of Refuge Harbor. We loved watching the sunset each evening after exploring and soaking in the beauty of the island. They have a restaurant at the hotel that was excellent which offered a large variety of cuisines to cater to people from around the globe. There is also a well-kept swimming pool.

We enjoyed shopping for fine handicrafts made by the Tongan people. They are very skilled in pounding and painting tapa cloth which is made from the paper mulberry tree. They use it for clothes, beds,  and home decorations. They also weave lovely baskets, purses, hats, and fans.  Another thing that they are very skilled at is wood carving.

Vava’u is not on the main mass tourism routes, so it still maintains many of the original Tongan cultures, language and traditions.

I will always remember the glorious relaxing time we spent in Vava’u, Tonga, and I hope to be able to return again soon.

Bio

Ruth Elayne Kongaika was raised in the mainland, USA, but has been traveling in the South Pacific for the past forty years. She tries to capture the beauty of the islands through her photography, painting and writing. She has a blog which shares some of her art and favorite subjects at:

http://hawaiianart.ning.com/

email: kongaikr@byuh.edu